Positives

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

These are the positives to my negatives. I don’t like all of them but I do like the majority. My personal favorites are the ones that show detail- the two images that show clear light, the very pale/ underexposed one that shows the outside building and the one that has the light at the top right-hand side (reminds me of a horror movie for some reason).

I don’t like the bottom two pinholes as they are too light and show no detail at all. That is disappointing but I can learn from my notes how to make them better for in the future, besides, it was only my second attempt at using a pinhole camera.

I made my negatives positive by scanning them into a Mac from my book and then going on to Photoshop > Image > Adjustments > Invert. As it was easy and had simple steps I did it in a matter of minutes. Next time I will use curves and levels to adjust the images so there is more defined detail and shadow/highlight.

Photogram outcomes

What is a photogram?
“A picture produced with photographic materials, such as light-sensitive paper, but, without a camera”- Google

Why are there pink tints on some of the photograms?
The photogram wasn’t in  the fixer long enough. It needed to be in the fixer for at least five minutes.

The worst image was of a lace ribbon and it hadn’t even shown up on the light-sensitive paper. Instead of getting a crisp image of the ribbon all I got was a black photogram. Next time I will either give it less exposure to light or get an object that is more defined.

The best image I managed to get was of my necklace and ring. I managed to get good detail of the small links on the chain and as the ring was rather bulky it showed up on the photogram.

Some images need to be sharper. The reason it may not be as sharp as it should be is because of the exposure to the light or the amount of time in the developer.

 

35mm outcome- from Friday 16th, 2016

IMG_20160921_152222912[1].jpg

Above is the contact sheet of the negatives I managed to get from the 35mm camera. The ridges on the film are scuffed and there are scratches on some of the frames as it was my first time developing 35mm film. The images are a little too bright for my liking so next time I could either keep it in the developer for longer or give it a longer exposure to light. I had it exposed for 2.5 seconds so next time I will go for 3 seconds and see how that goes. The two images of the plant (third row of negatives, right-hand side) are a little too dark so I think if I had to just expose those two images then I would use about 2 seconds of exposure. The third and fourth image on the second row of negatives have lost detail as they needed more detail- this would have shown the lines in the faces on the building. The first image on the first row has been cut off due to it being the beginning of the film.

Contact Sheets

Equipment;

  • Photo paper
  • Glass negative holder
  • Black card
  • Negatives

How to make them;

  • Go into dark room with equipment
  • Go to an enlarger or a light where you can adjust the timer
  • Put photo paper on glass holder
  • Put negatives on the photo paper (I cut my negatives into six and then placed them in rows)
  • Set time to one second
  • Place card over about 90% of the negatives and press start on the light
  • Keep moving card over the negatives until there are no negatives left and press the start button each time the card moves*
  • Develop the same as you would with pinhole prints
  • Whatever the correct exposure is you then use on the next contact print- you don’t need the card for this

*At first the negatives you first expose will only be exposed for one second but as you expose the other prints for one second at a time the first exposed negatives will have a longer exposure

The correct exposure for me is usually 2.5-3 seconds but this doesn’t always work.

The 35mm outcomes- before they have been edited/inverted

Overall I managed to take 20 good shots

The trees and plants were good as it showed the negatives and detail. The buildings i took photos of were detailed and the camera managed to get the shadows right. The water feature had definite shape and form but I can’t see a 100% detail, i will be able to when i upload the image online. The signs were good and looked quite retro in b&w.

The one bad photo had half a black frame. This was towards the end of the film.The best photos are the Church and the building above bargain buysThe worst photo was one I took of a shop window as it had a lot of glare on it.

I will know what they actually look like when they are edited.